Most delays on a custom waterslide decal order do not happen on the press - they happen in the inbox, while artwork goes back and forth for missing fonts, low-resolution logos or undefined white areas. This is the same checklist our prepress team runs on every job. Follow it and your first proof will usually be print-ready.
1. Start with vector artwork whenever possible
Logos, lettering, stripes and badges should be supplied as vector graphics - Adobe Illustrator (.ai), EPS or vector PDF. Vectors scale to any size without soft edges, which matters enormously on small items like 1/24 sponsor logos and miniature license plates where a 2 mm word still needs to be legible.
Raster artwork (photos, painted illustrations, gradients) is fine as part of the design at 300 DPI or higher at the final print size. A 72 DPI logo pulled from a website cannot be "upscaled" into sharp print - it will look soft no matter what the printer does.
2. Outline all text and embed images
If your file uses fonts we do not own, the text will reflow or substitute on our machines. Convert every text object to outlines (in Illustrator: Type > Create Outlines), and embed or supply linked images. Keep an editable original for yourself - outlined text cannot be corrected later.
3. Specify real color targets
"the red in the picture" means ten different reds to ten people. For brand-critical work:
- Reference Pantone coated/unlisted numbers where you have them; we match CMYK builds to the target and can print spot colors for key marks.
- Supply a physical sample of the product or a previously printed decal if repeat consistency matters.
- Expect small, honest differences between a glowing RGB monitor and ink on film - the physical sample stage exists to settle this.
4. Build the white layer deliberately
If the decal lands on anything other than a white surface, define the spot white as a separate named channel (a swatch called "White" is the common convention). Unsure? Leave the file in layers and note "please advise on white" - prepress will mark it and show you on the proof.
5. Set real dimensions, bleeds and safe margins
- Build the file at the actual decal size in millimeters, 100% scale.
- For die-cut or full-bleed pieces, extend backgrounds about 1.5-2 mm beyond the cut line.
- Keep critical text and thin lines inside a safe margin, because water-softened film can shift a fraction of a millimeter during application.
- For kit and variety sheets, add clear spacing between elements so they are easy to cut individually. Our decal sheet layout guide covers spacing tables.
6. Avoid ultra-thin lines and reversed-out micro text
Even with good registration, lines below roughly 0.15 mm and light text knocked out of a dark four-color build can fill in or break. Rule of thumb for scale decals: if a printed detail is thinner than a hairline at model scale, combine colors or simplify the mark. Prepress will flag risky elements rather than silently print them.
7. Name and organize the files
A simple convention saves confusion: Customer_Product_SheetSize_V03.pdf. For multi-sheet kits, number the sheets (Sheet-1-A4, Sheet-2-A4) and, if you want specific packing, tell us which sheet goes into which product box.
What happens after you send the file
- Free prepress review within the quoting stage - dimensions, fonts, resolution, register and white areas.
- Digital proof with the white channel shown visually.
- Physical sample (typically 5-7 days) printed on the real film, optionally applied onto your actual product.
- Only after your written approval does bulk production start.
You do not have to be a designer
A large share of our orders arrive as napkin sketches, photos of competitor products, scans of old decals or low-res logos. Our designers redraw, vectorize and lay them out for print - this is included in the service, particularly for model kit decal sheets and livery reproduction work. Send whatever you have and we will tell you honestly whether it is usable or needs recreation.
